Good Libations: The many gin variations | Food & Cooking | roanoke.com

2022-07-30 07:00:43 By : Mr. Jacky Chan

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If you have been enjoying a crisp, refreshing gin and tonic during this sultry weather, you might be surprised by the many different styles of gin available today. The story of gin’s evolution is quite interesting.

In 16th-century Holland, a professor of medicine named Franciscus Sylvius concocted a potion from juniper berries (“jeneverbes” in Dutch) and other botanical herbs. This early variation, sweeter than gin today, was called genever, which over time evolved to “gin”. Since the concoction was inexpensive and easy to make at home, problems with public drunkenness arose. This led to the Gin Act of 1751, which greatly reduced the number of gin shops. In 1760 a compromise restored distilling with higher taxes.

During the 19th century, malaria was a big problem in such British colonies as India. It was found that quinine, derived from the bark of the cinchona tree, was effective against malaria. The quinine was intensely bitter, but English soldiers found that mixing it with gin and sugar helped it to go down easily. Distillers started adding citrus fruits and botanicals for flavor and dialed back the sweetness, leading to today’s London Dry Gin.

Today there are so many gins available that Chris Losh in Decanter magazine says a ‘ginaissance’ is taking place.

Gin production begins with a flavorless neutral spirit distilled from various blends of sugar cane or grain. Gin is required by law to contain juniper berries, but the other botanicals vary in creative ways. Some producers put the botanical herbs in clean cotton bags and steep them with the liquor. In the vapor infusion method, the botanicals are placed into a high copper basket where the steaming vapor of the spirit delicately extracts the essences. After distillation, pure water is added to adjust the alcohol content. Bombay Sapphire uses this method with a total of ten botanicals, pictured on the side of the bottle.

Italian juniper berries impart a pine tree note. Spanish almonds add a hint of nuttiness. Licorice roots from China infuse a slight, cooling note. Spanish lemon peel conveys a bittersweet citrus tang. Italian orrisroot imparts a slight violet smell. Angelica root contributes a pine nut flavor to the mix. Ground coriander seeds from Morocco lend a spicy citrus note. Cubeb berries from Java lend a pungent menthol component. Vietnamese cassia bark imparts a cinnamon essence. Lastly, Grains of Paradise from West Africa provide a complex mélange of chocolate, violet and pepper essences. Sapphire weighs in at 47% alcohol by volume (94 Proof). Bombay Sapphire East contains lemongrass and pepper with a bit less alcohol (42%) and is intended for tasty gin and tonics.

In contrast, Tanqueray London Dry Gin uses only four botanicals, Tuscan juniper, coriander, angelica root and licorice. The distillers are striving to achieve a balance of flavor that come together in a harmonious taste. Tanqueray 10 adds grapefruit, fresh lime, fresh orange and chamomile flowers for a fresh and tangy citrus note. The alcohol is boosted to 47.3%.

If you prefer gin with less juniper concentration and a lighter note of cucumbers, consider Hendrick’s Gin. Master distiller Leslie Gracie employs a Bennett still that steeps the botanicals overnight as well as a rare Carter-Head still that steeps botanical in a basket in the upper neck, resulting in a light and delicate libation. Hendrick’s uses standard botanicals such as coriander and elderflower, but adds cucumbers and Bulgarian rose petals for a floral taste. This Scottish Gin weighs in at 44% ABV (88 proof).

Islay is a small Hebridean island that is a two-hour ferry ride from mainland Scotland. The island is located in a harsh area buffeted by cold, wind and rain. Islay is noted for high quality Scotch Whisky, but here you will find The Botanist gin. A team of foragers canvas the area year-round and harvest local botanicals. It takes seven months to harvest and dry the 22 varieties of botanicals used in this gin. Some of the more unusual ones include wood sage, lady’s bedstraw and creeping thistle. In addition to juniper notes, the taster may detect notes of mint, wood sage and coriander. 46% ABV (92 proof).

If you want a large number of botanicals, take a look at Monkey 47, which uses 47 hand picked herbs and spices from Germany’s Black Forest. The gin is fashioned from a molasses base and is noted for complex herbaceous notes of citrus, lavender and pepper. It weighs in at 47% ABV (94 proof).

The Shed distillery, located in rural Drumshanbo, Ireland, produces Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish gin. This unique beverage uses gunpowder tea, in addition to some of the usual botanicals, for a unique flavor. Gunpowder tea is made by drying green tea and rolling the leaves into pellets which resemble gunpowder in appearance. The tea is combined with eight botanicals, including local meadowsweet, to produce a gin with notes of herbs, citrus green tea and star anise. The gin weighs in at 43% ABV (86 proof).

One of my favorites for gin and tonic is Vigilant. This tasty product is made by the Joseph A. Magnus company, formerly of Washington, D.C. Magnus formed the company in 1892 and by 1903 was producing high quality bourbon in Cincinnati, Ohio. A stickler for perfection, he produced his eponymous bourbon as well as Murray Hill Club. When prohibition started in 1918, Magnus retired to Michigan, ceasing production. He passed away in 1927, but in 2014 Magnus’s great grandson discovered several perfectly preserved bottles more than 100 years old. The bourbon was so good that Magnus assembled a team of experts and opened a distillery in Washington. The company moved to Michigan in 2020. Vigilant District dry gin uses sweet marionberry, grapefruit and bergamot orange in addition to the normal botanicals. The gin is vibrant with citrus and bitter herb flavors that really stand up to tonic. It weighs in at 42% ABV (84 proof).

There are many other gins out there. Most mention the ingredients on the label so you can see what piques your interest.

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What to serve alongside? How about cooked orzo with crumbled feta cheese, sweet baby peas, an olive oil drizzle and fresh herbs? A crisp white Greek wine would be a fitting beverage accompaniment.

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